With my love of Liberty London prints and spring, I've been itching to combine them together.
Liberty Jane is a delightful mixture of beautiful and bright florals, and a simple light and airy cotton knit.
Onion organic cotton is the lightest and softest cotton we've ever used, so it's the perfect match for the vibrancy that Liberty prints are.
This is the perfect project to skill swap, both the knitting and sewing components are quick easy. If you live in Lancaster, Max at Ahoy runs a craft drop-in on Wednesdays (see link for time) where she will assist you with the sewing. Freehold Yarn Co. run a knitting group most Thursdays at the Britiannia in Lancaster (see events) from 8pm till whenever, there will almost always be someone available to assist you with the knitting and possibly sewing if doing it by hand.
Onion Organic Cotton
1/2 - 1 m Cotton Fabric
3.75mm 40cm Circular Needles (sleeves and smallest sizes may require magic/traveling loop)
We have used Onion Organic Cotton in v101 (slightly off white, Ivory) and Betsy Tana Lawn Cotton - Liberty Fabrics from the worlds greatest factory shop Standfast and Barracks
Combinations we love (and it was oh so hard to cut it down to this many...)
1. v124 and unknown - It's really annoying as this is my favourite but I've been staring at Liberty London's website and I can not find it.
2. v102 (perfect white) and Floating Flora Tana Lawn
3. v109 and Betsy Ann Tana Lawn
4. v103 and Phoebe Tana Lawn
All of these fabrics were purchased from Standfast and Barracks who are well worth a visit! Some may no longer be available as I buy them periodically when I visit, I can't leave the shop without at least a meter of florals.
24 stitches/34 rows = 10cm in stockinette
Swatch was steamed/pressed but not washed
The best way to get the length of the dress is to measure the bodice against a current dress, I have given approx sizes below but they are only a guide. Please remember that the cotton bodice is really stretchy so no need to add much (if any) ease, just make sure the skirt isn't too tight.
0 - 6 months
Chest 46 cm
Length 16.5 cm
Yarn Yardage 1 ball
Fabric Yardage 88cm x desired length
(Knee length 18cm, Tea 24cm)
6 - 12 months
Chest 49 cm
Length 18 cm
Yarn Yardage 2 balls
Fabric Yardage 92cm x desired length
(Knee length 20cm, Tea 26cm)
12 - 24 months
Chest 51 cm
Length 21 cm
Yarn Yardage 2 balls
Fabric Yardage 102 x desired length
(Knee length 25cm, Tea 29cm)
2 - 4 yrs
Chest 57 cm
Length 21.5 cm
Yarn Yardage 2 balls
Fabric Yardage 114 x desired length
(Knee length 28cm, Tea 35cm)
4 - 6 years
Chest 65 cm
Length 24 cm
Yarn Yardage 2 balls
Fabric Yardage 130 x desired length
(Knee length 52cm, Tea 65)
Pattern is worked flat initially and then joined to make the eyelet at the back.
In the round...
Row 1: K1, P1 rpt
Row 2: P1, K1 rpt
Row 1 [RS]: K1, P1 rpt
Row 2 [WS]: K1, P1 rpt
Knit Front, Slip Back (KFSB):
As you would with a KFB, Knit front of sts as normal without slipping off the left needle, place right needle into the back leg and slip off. A normal KFB would also look nice with this pattern but won't have the open lacy raglan.
The cotton does have a fair bit of stretch but if you don't stretch it while applying the fabric skirt then the skirt will be snug and not allow the bodice to stretch at the waist. For a snug fit a more advanced seamstress/tailor can put in a little zip or snap.
When attaching the cotton fabric it is best to seam it to the bodice by hand with whip stitch while applying gentle tension so the waist has some movement. I found the best location is the first row of purls rather than the seed stitch border, however, if the edge rolls it will need a few tacks to keep it down and looking swish. However, it is perfectly fine to machine this, I have heard people place paper on top of the knitting to ensure it doesn't get caught then rip the paper away but I haven't done this so can't comment personally on it.
Cast on 84 (92, 96, 108, 120) sts, with preferred long tail cast on (I like German Twisted Long Tail), leave enough yarn to weave in and attach button.
Row 1 [WS]: Seed Stitch till end (k1, p1 rpt)
Row 2: P1, YO PTOG, *K1, P1* rpt * to * til end
Row 3: *K1, P1*, rpt * to * knitting in the YO to form the button hole
A) [RS] Knit till end
B) [WS] Purl 13 (15, 15, 18, 21) PM, Purl 16 (16, 18, 18, 18), PM, Purl 26 (30, 30, 36, 42), PM, Purl 16 (16, 18, 18, 18), PM, Purl 13 (15, 15, 18, 21)
| back | shoulder | body | shoulder | back |
Row 1: In stockinette *work sts until 1 before marker KFSB, Slip marker, K1, KFSB* rpt * to * till end.
Row 2: Purl all sts, until yoke is joined in the round, at which time sts are knitted.
AND at the same time when yoke reach 1.5 (2, 2, 3, 3)cms from cast on, join in the round when on a RS. Yoke is now worked in the round
Repeat row 1 and 2 for a total of 10 (10, 11, 11, 13) rounds each.
Work even until yoke measures 12 (13, 15, 15, 16) cm from cast on edge.
Work to first marker and removing markers as you go, place 36 (36, 40, 40, 44) sts on waste yarn, backwards loop cast on 10 (10, 10, 11, 11) sts, knit across body and raglan sts, then place 36 (36, 40, 40, 44) sts on waste yarn, backwards loop cast on 9 (9, 9, 10, 10) sts. (This is intentionally odd numbers)
Work body even until body measures 4.5cm (5, 6, 6.5, 8) cm from underarm.
Work 3 rows Seed Stitch and bind off in pattern.
Pick up sts held on waste yarn, knit across in pattern, pick up 9 (9, 9, 11, 11) (PM if you wish) and join in the round.
There will be two holes that will need seaming at the end, to avoid this I pick up an extra sts from each corner and KTOG them, however, there is no science to this, you just need to pick up a stitch and see how it looks as sometimes there is still a hole. I just lift different ones until there is no hole and it looks tidy.
Work sleeve in stockinette for 3 (3, 4, 4, 5) rows from underarm.
Work 3 rows of Seed Stitch.
Bind off loosely in pattern or with sewn bind off (nice and stretchy + looks good)
Seam holes in underarms and weave in all ends.
Wash and lay flat to dry, I also was able to iron the bodice on medium heat/high steam with no issues.
Cut a rectangle of fabric double the width of your bodice and the desired length, I have given the measurements above but it is best to check against a favourite dress.
Seam back together and finish edge.
Apply basting stitch to waist edge and gather to appropriate size for bodice (Apply gentle stretch to bodice when sizing) and top stitch to secure.
Fold edge and press, if you want an enclosed seam do this now.
I found it best to apply the skirt to the bodice with hand sewn baste stitches to the first row of purls on the inner edge, then to follow over with whip stitch to secure. As this leaves approx 1cm of knitting there is a risk of it rolling up so I applied a few stitches to secure the band down.
Hem bottom edge and press garment.